The fog is so thick I can barely see my own hand when I stretch it out in front of me. The air is damp, cool, and full of an ancient, earthy scent I’ve never smelled anywhere else. Around me, giant laurel trees tower toward the sky, covered in moss, like something from a fairy tale forest. And then I understand: I’m not in Tenerife. At least not in the Tenerife known for beaches, sunsets, and cocktails. I’ve stepped into a time machine, and I’m now twenty thousand years in the past.
Welcome to the Anaga Mountains, where the laurel forests guard one of Earth’s oldest secrets.
When the Island’s Two Faces Meet
When someone says Tenerife, most people immediately think of sunshine, beaches, volcanoes. And rightly so – they’re all here, all wonderful. But what makes Tenerife truly special is how incredibly diverse it is in a relatively small area.
In the morning you’re still sitting on a sunny terrace in Costa Adeje, sipping an ice-cold lemonade in 25-degree heat. By afternoon you’re standing deep in the Anaga Mountains, where it’s 15 degrees, fog shrouds the landscape, and you’re in a forest that existed before the dinosaurs. One hour by car. That’s all it takes to step from one world into another.
The First Moment: When I Arrived in Anaga
I remember that morning when I first went to the Anaga Mountains. Friends who had discovered it weeks earlier invited me. “This is completely different from anything you’ve seen in Tenerife,” they said. I was a bit skeptical. How different could it be?
Well, I was wrong. Very wrong.
We drove northeast from Santa Cruz, upward on the serpentine mountain road. As we climbed, the landscape changed radically. The dry, cactus-filled undergrowth was replaced by pines, and then we began to see the first laurel trees. And then the fog rolled in.
At first it was just a fine mist clinging to the windshield. Then it got thicker and thicker until finally we could barely see anything. We slowed down, and on both sides of the road appeared those monumental trees – with sprawling crowns, deep green foliage, brown trunks covered in moss and lichen.
We got out of the car at a small parking area, and when I stepped out… well, it was as if I’d arrived on another planet. The silence. The scent. The fog. The trees that towered above me like the pillars of natural cathedrals. Everything was different from what I’d known before.
What Is a Laurel Forest, and Why Is It So Rare?
Before I tell you more about my own experiences, let me quickly explain what a laurel forest is and why it’s so special.
Laurel forests – or laurisilva, as they’re scientifically called – are ancient forest types that covered much of Europe and North Africa during the Tertiary period, millions of years ago. During the ice ages, however, these forests almost completely disappeared from the continent. They only survived in a few places: the Canary Islands, Madeira, and the Azores.
The Anaga Mountains’ laurel forest is one of the largest and best-preserved remaining laurel forests in the world. This is living history. When you walk among these trees, you see plants that are essentially unchanged from what they were twenty thousand years ago.
The photo was provided by La Laguna
UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Protected area. And the best part? Anyone who comes here can explore it. There are marked tourist trails, shorter and longer hikes that allow you to safely discover this ancient world.
Hiking in the Jungle: Cruz del Carmen and the Anaga Laurel Forest Empire
One of my most memorable hikes started from Cruz del Carmen. This is a popular starting point in the heart of the Anaga Mountains, where there’s a visitor center, parking, and a nice viewpoint – if there’s no fog.
That day there was fog. A lot. But that’s not a problem at all – in fact, it’s what makes the Anaga experience truly magical.
The Trail That Changes You
I chose a moderately difficult hike that was about 8 kilometers long and took me deep into the laurel forest. The path is well marked, but in places steep and slippery – especially after rain or morning dew.
As I started walking, I was immediately surrounded by the forest’s sound. But it wasn’t loud – it was quiet. Just the rustling of leaves, a few birds singing in the distance, and my own breathing. No human noise. No car sounds. Nothing.
The trees towered above me. Laurels, mocán (Visnea mocanera), til (Ocotea foetens), and other ancient species. Their trunks thick, the bark rough, covered with moss and lichens. The canopy so dense that even if the sun is shining outside – which it wasn’t now – twilight reigns beneath. A special, greenish light filters through, like through a cathedral’s stained glass window.
When You Lose Your Sense of Time
After about an hour of walking, I completely lost my sense of time. I didn’t know how long I’d been walking, didn’t know exactly where I was – I just knew I was in the middle of an ancient forest, and I’d never felt so small and yet so connected to nature.
At one point I sat down beside a fallen tree trunk and just listened. The fog moved slowly between the trees, sometimes thickening, sometimes thinning. Occasionally a tree fern would emerge from the fog like a ghost, then disappear again.
And I sat there thinking: this landscape looked exactly like this when humans still lived in caves. This landscape saw animals that have long been extinct. This landscape survived ice ages, volcanic eruptions, climate changes. And now I’m here, a tiny speck in the flow of time, and I get to experience it.
Meeting Local Life
The Anaga Mountains aren’t just home to the forest – people live here too. Tiny villages nestle among the mountains, where local residents still maintain a traditional way of life. They cultivate terraces on steep slopes, raise goats, sell local produce.
During one hike, I stumbled upon a tiny house that was more like a stall, and an elderly woman was sitting there. I smiled at her, greeted her in Spanish. She smiled back and offered me a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. I sat down, and we talked – as much as my broken Spanish allowed.
She was born in these mountains when she was seven years old. The forest was there then too, and her parents lived there, and her grandparents too. Generations who grew up in the shadow of the Anaga Mountains, under the protection of ancient trees.
She told me that when she was young, more people lived there. By now many have moved to the cities, but they stayed. Because this is their home. Because this land nourishes them. And because the forest is part of their family.
When I moved on, I was grateful for that brief encounter. It reminded me that nature isn’t just something to see – it’s home, lifestyle, identity for those who live here.
Mirador de Jardina: When the Fog Clears
One of the most wonderful places in the Anaga Mountains is the Mirador de Jardina viewpoint. If the weather is clear – and I emphasize: if – an incredible panorama of the mountains, the northern coast, and the ocean unfolds from here.
When I got there, at first there was only fog. Thick, white fog that obscured everything. I was already preparing to move on when suddenly… it moved. A wind came from somewhere and slowly began to dissipate the fog.
First I saw just a small patch of ocean. Then more and more. The fog swirled like a living creature, and as it dispersed, the landscape revealed itself before me. Deep valleys, steep cliff faces, the green ocean of forest, and in the distance the blue Atlantic Ocean.
I stood there and felt chills run through me. This view showed millions of years of work: volcanoes, erosion, the cycle of life and death, and the forest that survived it all.
Even now, when I’m stressed or stuck on some problem, I think back to that moment. To that feeling of standing at Mirador de Jardina and seeing how small I am and how immense nature is. And somehow it always helps put things in perspective.
Practical Tips If You Visit Too
If you’re now planning to explore the Anaga Mountains yourself, let me give you some useful tips I wish I’d known before my first hike:
Dress in layers! The weather in the Anaga Mountains is completely unpredictable. It might be 25 degrees at the coast, but up there it’s 15 and foggy. Bring a windbreaker and maybe a thin raincoat too.
Good hiking shoes are essential. The trails can be slippery, especially after rain or morning dew. Don’t try it in sneakers or sandals – this isn’t a museum walk, but a real mountain hike.
Water and food. There are no snack bars, shops, or restaurants on the trails in the Anaga Mountains. Bring enough water (at least 1.5 liters) and some food (energy bars, fruit, sandwiches).
Start early! Morning – especially in summer – is the best time to hike. The weather is cooler, and there’s a better chance you’ll avoid tourist groups. Plus, the morning fog creates a magical atmosphere.
Map or GPS. Even though the trails are marked, it never hurts to have a map or offline GPS app on your phone. Mobile network isn’t always available up there.
Respect nature. Don’t leave trash, don’t pick plants, don’t disturb wildlife. This is a protected area, and it’s up to us to ensure future generations can enjoy it too.
Favorite Hiking Routes Worth Trying
If you’re looking for specific hiking routes, here are a few I’ve personally tried and wholeheartedly recommend:
Cruz del Carmen – Chinamada circuit: About 8 km, 3-4 hours, medium difficulty. Goes through the laurel forest and reaches Chinamada, where you can see cave houses.
Punta del Hidalgo – Chinamada: Longer hike, about 12 km, 4-5 hours. Steeper sections, but beautiful views of the northern coast.
Afur – Taganana: Classic Anaga hike, about 6 km, 2-3 hours. Runs through the heart of the laurel forest and descends to Taganana village, where you can eat excellent fish dishes.
Taborno circuit: Shorter, about 5 km, 2 hours. Perfect if you don’t have much time but want to taste the Anaga atmosphere.
Taganana: The Forest’s Gatekeeper
If you’re in the Anaga Mountains, don’t miss Taganana village. This is a beautiful little coastal village at the northern foot of the Anaga Mountains, where the forest meets the ocean.
After arriving at Taganana’s shore following a long hike, I was hungry as a wolf. I sat down at a small seaside restaurant and ordered fresh grilled fish with papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) and mojo sauce. The flavors, the fresh sea breeze, the tiredness in my legs – all together created a perfect moment.
Taganana, by the way, is an authentic Canarian village where life moves slower than in the tourist zones. The streets are narrow, traditional houses, a small square in front of the church, and local people who still remember what the island was like before tourism.
When You Return to the “Normal” World
After every Anaga visit, there’s a strange feeling when you return. As you drive down the serpentine road and the sky slowly clears, the fog lifts, and you see the sunny beach again, the white buildings, the tourists – it’s like traveling between two different dimensions.
And sometimes I wonder: which is the “real” Tenerife? The sunny, vibrant seaside resort, or the ancient, mystical laurel forest? The answer, of course, is both. And that’s exactly what makes this island so unique and fascinating – that both worlds coexist, just an hour apart from each other.
The Perfect Base for Exploration
If you’re planning to spend a longer time in Tenerife and want to explore not just the beaches but the inland wonders too – like the Anaga Mountains – it’s crucial to choose your accommodation well.
Costa Adeje is an ideal starting point. Why? Because everything you need is here: modern infrastructure, excellent restaurants, beautiful beaches, and at the same time great transport connections to the rest of the island. From here, the Anaga Mountains are about 50-60 minutes by car – perfect distance for a full-day excursion.
When you get home after a tiring hike, it’s nice to know that a comfortable, modern apartment awaits where you can shower, recharge, and perhaps walk out to a seaside restaurant in the evening to celebrate the day’s adventures. Costa Adeje’s apartments offer exactly that: the comfort, quality, and flexibility needed to truly experience all of Tenerife’s wonders – from beach to mountains.
The Forest That Changes You
Before I close this story, let me share my final thought about the Anaga laurel forest. This isn’t just another sight on your “to-do” list. This isn’t a quick photo opportunity where you click once and move on.
The Anaga laurel forest is an experience that changes you. Stops you. Makes you realize how fragile and wonderful this planet we live on is. Reminds you that we humans are only here for a short time, while these forests have stood for millions of years.
When you walk among them, you feel the earth’s breath. You feel the weight of time. And somehow you feel both smaller and larger. Smaller because you see how tiny you are compared to nature’s magnitude. Larger because you’re part of this ancient story, this vast, continuing life.
If you come to Tenerife – and I hope you do – don’t miss the Anaga Mountains. Dedicate at least one day to it. Go up to the laurel forest. Walk among the trees. Breathe in the fog’s scent. Listen to the silence.
And when you go home, you’ll take with you something you can’t find anywhere else. A piece of the pre-ice age world. A memory of the ancient Earth. A silence that will stay with you forever.
Anaga is waiting. Are you ready?
The cover photo was provided by La Laguna.
Book accommodation in one of our apartments and set out to discover Anaga’s magic. Find more ideas on our Pinterest page!